
Sharing A Pic Nic In Paris!
INSIDERS PARIS – Enchanting bistros, hidden wine bars, famous patisseries…sometimes finding that special spot requires the help of an expert! Here are some of my favorites that I like to share with clients. This post is updated often, so come back often…
1st EATS: Le Café Marly @ 93 RUE DE RIVOLI – looks over the pyramid & Louvre’s main courtyard, very popular, metro-Palais Royal-Musee du Louvre, just a single cup of bracing espresso, a platter of roast chicken, a wedge of Camembert in classical setting. Check out the bathrooms!
Willi’s Wine Bar @ 13 RUE DES PETITS CHAMPS – on Fine Food Channel – has Lillet- a great wine that should be tried!
Gosselin @ 125 RUE ST-HONORE- (named best baguettes in Paris), they have life span of only 6 hours and is the bread of Parisians. The shops lunchtime array of baguette sandwiches from hamand gruyere to shrimp and avocado.
Aux Tonneaux @ 28 Rue Montorgueil was and is the local favorite hangout when the Les Halles market was still up and running. Now it is revitalized and offers some of the best pure’e de pommes de terre, steaks often served with enormous marrowbones and crisp duck confit.
CHOCOLATE: Chez Angelina @ 226 RUE DE RIVOLI Viennese, favored by coco chanel and some of the best hot cocoa you will ever taste!
SHOPS: Galerie Architecture Miniature Gault @ 206 RUE DE RIVOLI – find some great fun snow globes for gifts!
MARKET: RUE MONTORGEUIL, beginning @ RUE RAMBUTEAU (metro-Les Halles), most famous market, perfect pastries at Stohrer, while there walk down the restored Passage du Grand Cerf to visit Stain-Eustache church with a chapel dedicated to vegetable marts of Les Halles.
2nd EATS : Chez Georges @ RUE DU MAIL, delicious traditional, old fashioned setting, beef bourguignon, baba au rhum
G.Detour @ 58 Tiquetonne, to find endless rows of hard-to-find culinary treats like candied violets, pearl sugar, baking chocolates in all forms-all in a setting just like a general store.
3rd SHOP: Goumanyat @ 3 RUE DEUPUIS, saffron and all spices imaginable.
4th EATS: Benoit @ 20 RUE SAINT MARTIN, Metro: Chatelet or Hotel de Ville. CLOSED IN AUGUST!!
ICE CREAM: At the second island after Notre Dame’s- Saint Louise Il. Berthillon @ 29-31 RUE SAINT-LOUIS en ILLE , take Pont de la Tournelle to Ile St-Louis
5th- EATS: Le Mauzac @ 7 RUE DE L’ABBE-de-L’EPEE, come when hungry & order delicious onglet, Pan fried hanger steak, served w/excellent frites,
MARKET STREET, Marche Mouffetard @ RUE MOUFFETARD, classic and very popular, though touristy now. Begin at the top of the market just before noon to get a feel of the spirit. Stop at Café Mouffetard for dense & buttery croissants, baguettes & rich brioches or Michel Brusa (#16) for a tangy baguette au levain.
CHOCOLATE: Octave @ 138 RUE MOUFFETARD
CREPES: Au p’tit Gree @ RUE MOUFFETARD, huge variety of big filling crepes
BREAD & MORE: Le Boulanger de Monge @ 123 RUE MONGE, fans can’t get enough of petitis pans aux lardoons et conte, slim chewy rolls with bits of bacon & melted Comte cheese or escargots cannelle, cinnamon-filled pinwheels of croissant dough w/butter crumb topping. Best selling bread is pain bio au levain, delicate & tangy organic sourdough loaf.
Maison Kayser @ 14 RUE MONGE, bakes 60 diff. breads daily, even a square tipped baguette, malesherbes. Frances traditional breakfast pastry, viennoiseries. Seasonal treats like the bichon au citron is to die for (a flaky turnover filled with delicate lemon curd and sprinkled with just enough sugar for a caramelized crunch!) Café is great for light lunch or plat due jour, desert & coffee ($15). TIP: Croissants are plump, golden & flaky to touch.
Laurent Dubois @ 47 ter Blvd St-Germain, has an exhaustive selection of cheeses, the line often stretches out the door on Saturdays. TIP: Don’t serve yourself, salesclerks will discuss with you how you will be serving the cheese before hand wrapping it.
6th – Luxembourg Gardens
EATS: Pic Nic Stop – Gerard Mulot @ 76 RUE DE SEINE, specialty food store down the street from the gardens, pic nic at the gardens– order salmon and foie gras or get a sandwich exquisite.
Brasserie Lipp @ 151 BLVD ST-GERMAIN, hearty food, Hemingway’s old haunt
Josephine @ 117 RUE DU CHERCHE-MIDI, plain bistro with the best boeuf bourguignon in town and one of the best cassoulets-everything else is good
La Ferrandaise @ 8 RUE DE VAUGIRARD, always packed bistro across from gardens is perfect budget splurge. Rising start chef does superb mussel soup and roasted figs w/ice cream.
Take your pastry to Luxembourg Gardens, buying in a shop called Gerard Mulot @ 76 RUE DE SEINE. People from all over the world come here.
BREADS: Poilane @ 8 RUE DU CHERCHE MIDI so famouns, so good and still baked in antique wood fire ovens downstairs. TIP: check for cloth bread bags
CHOCOLATE: Christian Constand @ 37 RUE D’ASSAS or Pierre Herme @ 72 RUE BONAPARTE
Food Journeys are found at L’avant Comptoir @ 9 Carrefour de l’Ode’on offers Bordier butter from Brittany, Fleur de sel from Be’am and my personal favorite Jamon iberico from Basque.
7th EATS: Café du Marche, well recommended
Les Cocottes de Christian Constant @ 135 RUE SAINT-DOMINIQUE, French version of an American style diner, good value, great food
Au Bon Accueil (Bistro) @ 114 RUE DE MONTTESSUY, metro-Alma-Marceau, Ina’s & Patricia’s + many others Fav. Bar de ligne roti (roasted line caught sea bass), tarte au citron (lemon tart), escbeche de sardines (sardines browned in oil, then marinated in vinegar & herbs-served very cold) Closed Sat/Sun-English Spoken You are at the foot of EIFFEL tower.
CHOCOLATE at Michel Chaudun, 149 RUE DE L’UNIVERSITE
Le Bar Au Sel @ 49 DUAI D’ORSAY, metro: invalids, Patricia, Basque linens-sea themed, specials seared Dublin Bay prawns from Brittany (poelee de langoustines de Loctudy), sardines grilees aux herbes (sardines grilled with herbs), grilled sea bass cooked in sea salt-the best!!!
Aux Fins Gourmets @ 213 BLVD ST GERMAIN, rich French favorite cheap restaurant specializing in country dishes.
Chez L’Ami Jean @ 27 RUE DE BELZUNCE–try on the a la’ carte menu : “tout simplement la Cochonnaille Ju Pays” which is terrines heaped on a wooden board with all sorts of charcuterie, sausages, etc., veal and lamb good and creamy lemon custard.
Chez Germaine @ 30 RUE PIERRE LEROUX, crowded bistro serves comfort food such as steak w/potatoes dauphinois.
BREAD: Pain d’Epis @ 63 AVE BOSQUET, new kid in town offers speciality breads all from unique mixed flour dough. The fougasse is popular, ladder shaped dosed with olive oil & baked with fillings that change daily, such as black olives, tomatoes, etc).
MARKET : Rue Cler starts @ AVE DE LA MOTTE-PIQUET
SHOP: Bon Marche @ 38 RUE DE SEVRES, specialty foods and more!
Muriel Grateau @ 37 RUE DE BEAUNE, just check it out
CHEESE: Barthelemy @ 51 RUE DE GRENELLE, walk in & breath the air, ask for tastes, serve good.
8th – Champs Elysee’ to Arc de Triomphe
EATS: Il Etait une Oie dans le Sud-Quest @ 8 RUE GUSTAVE FLAUBERT – has a toaster at every table, specializing in foie gras. You toast your own bread and order duck foie gras any way you like it. No pretense or frills.
SHOPS: New Flagship stores – Nespresso & Louis Vuitton
MACAROONS: Laduree @ 16 RUE ROYALE- simply the best, elegant, with flavors changing according to season. (6 in box @ $14) beautiful tea shop
9th SHOPS: La Maison du Miel @ 24 RUE VIGNON, sells 40 of the best honeys in France, as well as all honey products
10th BREADS: Du Painet Des Idees boulangerie @ 35 RUE DE CHATEAU D’EAU, specializes in rustic bread with perfectly crunchy crust, seasonal fruit tarts and pain au chocolat
llth-Bastille Quarter Place d’Aligre @ metro LEDRU ROLLIN or FAIDHERBE CHALIGNY – permanent covered market, open Tues thru Sun with weekend flea market & expanded fruit/veggies (high quality vendors with excellent olive oils & Spanish hams)
14th EATS: Le Du @ 243 BLD RASPAI, great fish
15th EATS: Cuilliere en Bois (wooden spoon) @ 108 RUE DES ENTREPRENEURS (metro-commerce 8), delightful restaurant with nice ambience, great service, delicious crepes & galettes of all types (buckwheat flour pancake).
SHOPS: Gift Shop Le Cordon Bleu @ 8 RUE LEON DELHOMME, stocks everything from aprons to cookbooks to wine coasters
BREADS: Poilane @ 49 BLVD DE GRENELLE, another shop or this favorite baker. *check for cloth bread bags
16th BREADS: Bechu @ 118 AVE VICTOR-HUGO, where Onasis bought his bread, among the cities best, nice café very beautiful building – orange croissants outstanding!
MARKET: La Ferme du Poirier Fleuri @ RUE St-DIDER’s old covered market (not shopping mall opposite), Daniel sells jarred cassoulet, pates and sausages straight from his own farm.
18th – Monmartre
EATS: Café des Duox Moulins @ 15 RUE LEPIC, Amelie shot here, café crowded.
L’Entr’actre @ 44 RUE D’ORSEL, tiny, full of paintings with simple, good and not too expensive food.
MARKET: Barbes @ metro BARBES/ROUCHEOUART, near Gare du Nord, always packed runs along BLVD de la Chapelle and Blvd Roucheouart (to left/right of metro stop). Food, fragrant herbs, great prices.
Rue Lepic, classic market for Amelie fans. Metro-ABBESSES, runs all the way from BLVD de CLICHY to PLACE DU TERTE near Sacre Coeur!
OTHER: YOGURT BRAND : CAILLE (smooth & luscious)
Fromage Blanc, like our sour cream
GROM on the rue de Seine, newest gelato from Torrino